潮流大神NIGO首次大型回顧展《NIGO: From Japan with Love》 開箱青少年NIGO房間,5月1日登場倫敦設計博物館
KENZO、NIKE、百事可樂、路易威登、A Bathing Ape、HUMAN MADE……這些世界知名的品牌都與「他」有密切關係——日本潮流大神NIGO生平首次大型回顧展《NIGO: From Japan with Love》,5月1日將於倫敦設計博物館盛大開幕!原裝復刻展出「青少年NIGO房間」、眾多經典聯名作之外,還有他親手捏的陶器、以及強調「我精心挑選」超過600個NIGO私人藏品。
饒舌歌手、設計師、藝術總監、陶藝愛好者……NIGO(長尾智明)被譽為形塑日本街頭時尚之傳奇,更在高端精品世界游刃有餘。1993年與時尚設計師高橋盾(Jun Takahashi)在原宿合資開設NOWWHERE,而後創立的HUMAN MADE和A Bathing Ape,形塑裏原宿成為日本街頭文化中心。2003年與Pharell Williams共同創立Billionaire Boys Club,2021年成為KENZO藝術總監,是繼創辦人Kenzo Takada之後的第一位日籍設計師,承繼品牌歷史傳承的搖籃,置入當代語彙。NIGO設計領域涵蓋時尚、音樂、建築和室內設計,觸角多元,熱愛美式復古、街頭、嘻哈、還有日本工藝——他自己就是陶作愛好者,「時尚+音樂=文化」是其獨門配方,作品屢創話題和搶購,NIGO卻堅信The Future is in the Past,他自己便是成長於日本廣納美國文化的1980年代,總能在復古與未來光譜之間迸發出迷人的點子。
NIGO photographed at the Design Museum. Photo credit Elliot James Kennedy 。
NIGO回顧展:來自日本的愛送給你
55歲之際,NIGO選址倫敦設計博物館舉辦生平第一個大型回顧展《NIGO: From Japan with Love》。倫敦設計博物館以「設計」為名,然而策展不限建築、室內、家具物件,近年諸多大師級回顧展,先後於倫敦設計博物館登場,譬如名導Tim Burton和Wes Wenderson,《The World of Tim Burton》甚至創下開館35年來參觀人數最多之紀錄。如今NIGO也將在此舉辦回顧展,他自述其實時機來得巧,近些年,他正思考是否能有機會,把從小到大影響他執業並珍藏的近萬物件,對外展出(先前僅在部分工作室或專賣店舉辦小型特展),而設計博物館恰在此時盛情邀請。
NIGO photographed at the Design Museum. Photo credit Elliot James Kennedy 。NIGO photographed at the Design Museum. Photo credit Elliot James Kennedy。
NIGO回顧展分為四個主題篇章
《NIGO: From Japan with Love》分為四個主題篇章:〈The Future is in the Past〉、〈Evolution〉、〈The NIGO Effect〉、〈New Traditions〉,展出逾700個品項,其中600個來自NIGO私人珍藏庫(檔案庫),更強調「全部由我精心挑選」,NIGO私人珍藏庫共超過1萬件品項,鮮少對外公開,此次特展無疑是自我大揭祕。從日本街頭潮流至巴黎時裝伸展台,舊雜誌、古著、時裝、設計品等琳瑯滿目,展現跨域的多元觸角。矚目焦點包括一間「原裝復刻再製」NIGO青少年時期臥房、BAPE早期珍罕設計原型、NIGO親手捏製的陶作碗皿茶器,以及玻璃茶屋。
Inside one of NIGO’s notebooks, part of NIGO’s personal collection featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
藤原浩親筆簽名棒球帽,NIGO私人珍藏。New York baseball cap signed by Hiroshi Fujiwara, part of NIGO’s personal collection featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
HUMAN MADE Hariko Decoy Ducks, featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
數不清的公仔玩具,NIGO私人珍藏。Assortment of superhero action figures, part of NIGO’s personal collection featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.Aurex stereo system, part of NIGO’s personal collection featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
Checkers record, part of NIGO’s personal collection featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.NIGO少年時期收藏的功夫雜誌。Assortment of martial arts magazines part of NIGO’s personal collection featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
Car repair shop toy, part of NIGO’s personal collection featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
BAPE early era nylon Shell Jacket, featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.Last Orgy 2 Varsity Jacket, featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
HUMAN MADE 'Yokosuka Jumper' souvenir jacket, featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO
〈The NIGO Effect〉可視作成熟期,Louis Vuitton、Marc Jacobs、Pharrell Williams……等合作聯名,影響力交融高奢與街頭。曾在孩提時代予以重大影響的NIKE,後來也成為長年合作的真愛,展出2023年NIKE x NIGO AIR FORCE III及服飾系列,以及2024年APE-force近作和最新人偶公仔。
NIGO x Nike Red Varsity Jacket, featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.BAPE Camo Jacket, featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
NIGO x Nike Blue Sweatshirt featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
Levis Bing Crosby denim jacket worn by NIGO in his teens, featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
最後,〈New Traditions〉返璞歸真,展品可見NIGO如何從日本傳承數世紀的技藝,轉化成當代語彙。他熱愛陶藝,撥出時間捏陶製碗習茶道,還行旅日本多處城鎮,向職人請教學習傳統製陶技法,2025年於石水博物館舉辦首次陶藝展。此次選品,共展出25個親手捏製陶藝品,觀展最後,民眾將進入一間玻璃茶屋(由NOT A HOTEL贊助建造),定下心來,嚐嚐隱於內在靜寂的美妙。
Hand-thrown ceramic pot made by NIGO, featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
Hand-thrown ceramic pot made by NIGO, featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
Hand-thrown ceramic pot made by NIGO, featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
Hand-thrown ceramic pot made by NIGO, featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.