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潮流大神NIGO首次大型回顧展《NIGO: From Japan with Love》 開箱青少年NIGO房間,5月1日登場倫敦設計博物館

KENZO、NIKE、百事可樂、路易威登、A Bathing Ape、HUMAN MADE……這些世界知名的品牌都與「他」有密切關係——日本潮流大神NIGO生平首次大型回顧展《NIGO: From Japan with Love》,5月1日將於倫敦設計博物館盛大開幕!原裝復刻展出「青少年NIGO房間」、眾多經典聯名作之外,還有他親手捏的陶器、以及強調「我精心挑選」超過600個NIGO私人藏品。

Text / Shu Yin Kuo Photo / Design Museum

潮流大神NIGO首次大型回顧展《NIGO: From Japan with Love》 開箱青少年NIGO房間,5月1日登場倫敦設計博物館

饒舌歌手、設計師、藝術總監、陶藝愛好者……NIGO(長尾智明)被譽為形塑日本街頭時尚之傳奇,更在高端精品世界游刃有餘。1993年與時尚設計師高橋盾(Jun Takahashi)在原宿合資開設NOWWHERE,而後創立的HUMAN MADE和A Bathing Ape,形塑裏原宿成為日本街頭文化中心。2003年與Pharell Williams共同創立Billionaire Boys Club,2021年成為KENZO藝術總監,是繼創辦人Kenzo Takada之後的第一位日籍設計師,承繼品牌歷史傳承的搖籃,置入當代語彙。NIGO設計領域涵蓋時尚、音樂、建築和室內設計,觸角多元,熱愛美式復古、街頭、嘻哈、還有日本工藝——他自己就是陶作愛好者,「時尚+音樂=文化」是其獨門配方,作品屢創話題和搶購,NIGO卻堅信The Future is in the Past,他自己便是成長於日本廣納美國文化的1980年代,總能在復古與未來光譜之間迸發出迷人的點子。

NIGO photographed at the Design Museum. Photo credit Elliot James Kennedy 。
NIGO photographed at the Design Museum. Photo credit Elliot James Kennedy 。

NIGO回顧展:來自日本的愛送給你

55歲之際,NIGO選址倫敦設計博物館舉辦生平第一個大型回顧展《NIGO: From Japan with Love》。倫敦設計博物館以「設計」為名,然而策展不限建築、室內、家具物件,近年諸多大師級回顧展,先後於倫敦設計博物館登場,譬如名導Tim Burton和Wes Wenderson,《The World of Tim Burton》甚至創下開館35年來參觀人數最多之紀錄。如今NIGO也將在此舉辦回顧展,他自述其實時機來得巧,近些年,他正思考是否能有機會,把從小到大影響他執業並珍藏的近萬物件,對外展出(先前僅在部分工作室或專賣店舉辦小型特展),而設計博物館恰在此時盛情邀請。

NIGO photographed at the Design Museum. Photo credit Elliot James Kennedy 。
NIGO photographed at the Design Museum. Photo credit Elliot James Kennedy 。
NIGO photographed at the Design Museum. Photo credit Elliot James Kennedy。
NIGO photographed at the Design Museum. Photo credit Elliot James Kennedy。

NIGO回顧展分為四個主題篇章

《NIGO: From Japan with Love》分為四個主題篇章:〈The Future is in the Past〉、〈Evolution〉、〈The NIGO Effect〉、〈New Traditions〉,展出逾700個品項,其中600個來自NIGO私人珍藏庫(檔案庫),更強調「全部由我精心挑選」,NIGO私人珍藏庫共超過1萬件品項,鮮少對外公開,此次特展無疑是自我大揭祕。從日本街頭潮流至巴黎時裝伸展台,舊雜誌、古著、時裝、設計品等琳瑯滿目,展現跨域的多元觸角。矚目焦點包括一間「原裝復刻再製」NIGO青少年時期臥房、BAPE早期珍罕設計原型、NIGO親手捏製的陶作碗皿茶器,以及玻璃茶屋。

Inside one of NIGO’s notebooks, part of NIGO’s personal collection featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
Inside one of NIGO’s notebooks, part of NIGO’s personal collection featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.

藤原浩親筆簽名棒球帽,NIGO私人珍藏。New York baseball cap signed by Hiroshi Fujiwara, part of NIGO’s personal collection featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
藤原浩親筆簽名棒球帽,NIGO私人珍藏。New York baseball cap signed by Hiroshi Fujiwara, part of NIGO’s personal collection featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.

HUMAN MADE Hariko Decoy Ducks, featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
HUMAN MADE Hariko Decoy Ducks, featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.

少年NIGO追什麼?

走近NIGO青少年時期臥房,你將會看到少年NIGO著迷的美國文化與當時日本廣納外來文化所生的混融潮流。NIGO很早便展開收藏的喜好:1950年代Levi’s丹寧外套、古著棒球帽、校隊棒球外套(varsity jackets)、公仔玩具(唐老鴨、菲力貓、星際大戰等)、音樂雜誌、紅色東芝雙卡手提收錄音機、印著功夫皇帝李連杰當封面的雜誌等等……55歲熟男回看青少年的自己,他看見的是一個沈浸在1980年代東京潮流文化縮影的男孩,並精心挑選300件蘊藏珍貴意義的品項,「後來才知道,當時著迷的文化影響我那麼深,包括看待設計的視角」。

數不清的公仔玩具,NIGO私人珍藏。Assortment of superhero action figures, part of NIGO’s personal collection featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
數不清的公仔玩具,NIGO私人珍藏。Assortment of superhero action figures, part of NIGO’s personal collection featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
Aurex stereo system, part of NIGO’s personal collection featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
Aurex stereo system, part of NIGO’s personal collection featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
Checkers record, part of NIGO’s personal collection featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
Checkers record, part of NIGO’s personal collection featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
NIGO少年時期收藏的功夫雜誌。Assortment of martial arts magazines part of NIGO’s personal collection featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
NIGO少年時期收藏的功夫雜誌。Assortment of martial arts magazines part of NIGO’s personal collection featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.


Car repair shop toy, part of NIGO’s personal collection featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
Car repair shop toy, part of NIGO’s personal collection featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.

NIGO現象之外,拾起百年技藝請你喝碗茶

〈Evolution〉回顧NIGO初入設計產業的點滴,包括與高橋盾在1993年共創的第一間NOWHERE之記憶回顧,同一年,A Bathing Ape上市,驚喜展出品牌初代設計如T恤、棒球外套、迷彩服飾、羽絨外套等。以推出限量款和跨界聯名不斷帶起話題的他,多款與KAWS、MAC、迪士尼、百事可樂的經典聯名也在此區重現。

BAPE early era nylon Shell Jacket, featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
BAPE early era nylon Shell Jacket, featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
Last Orgy 2 Varsity Jacket, featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
Last Orgy 2 Varsity Jacket, featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.


HUMAN MADE 'Yokosuka Jumper' souvenir jacket, featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO
HUMAN MADE 'Yokosuka Jumper' souvenir jacket, featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO

〈The NIGO Effect〉可視作成熟期,Louis Vuitton、Marc Jacobs、Pharrell Williams……等合作聯名,影響力交融高奢與街頭。曾在孩提時代予以重大影響的NIKE,後來也成為長年合作的真愛,展出2023年NIKE x NIGO AIR FORCE III及服飾系列,以及2024年APE-force近作和最新人偶公仔。

NIGO x Nike Red Varsity Jacket, featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
NIGO x Nike Red Varsity Jacket, featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
BAPE Camo Jacket, featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
BAPE Camo Jacket, featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.


NIGO x Nike Blue Sweatshirt featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
NIGO x Nike Blue Sweatshirt featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.

Levis Bing Crosby denim jacket worn by NIGO in his teens, featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
Levis Bing Crosby denim jacket worn by NIGO in his teens, featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.

最後,〈New Traditions〉返璞歸真,展品可見NIGO如何從日本傳承數世紀的技藝,轉化成當代語彙。他熱愛陶藝,撥出時間捏陶製碗習茶道,還行旅日本多處城鎮,向職人請教學習傳統製陶技法,2025年於石水博物館舉辦首次陶藝展。此次選品,共展出25個親手捏製陶藝品,觀展最後,民眾將進入一間玻璃茶屋(由NOT A HOTEL贊助建造),定下心來,嚐嚐隱於內在靜寂的美妙。

  • Hand-thrown ceramic pot made by NIGO, featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
    Hand-thrown ceramic pot made by NIGO, featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
  • Hand-thrown ceramic pot made by NIGO, featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
    Hand-thrown ceramic pot made by NIGO, featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
  • Hand-thrown ceramic pot made by NIGO, featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
    Hand-thrown ceramic pot made by NIGO, featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
  • Hand-thrown ceramic pot made by NIGO, featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.
    Hand-thrown ceramic pot made by NIGO, featuring in NIGO: From Japan with Love at the Design Museum. Photo courtesy of NIGO.

NIGO QA問答

Q:可否跟我們分享這次回顧展緣起?

NIGO:當我接到倫敦設計博物館邀約,那時我正巧想著,有沒有機會把我過去55年的故事收攏在一起的方式,所以我非常感謝有這次邀約。

Q:首次在倫敦(設計博物館)舉辦大型個展,對你個人而言有什麼特殊意義嗎?「倫敦」是否在你的創作生涯扮演角色?

NIGO:這個回顧展是一個很好的機會,不只呈現我的作品,也讓我分享日本和文化底蘊。倫敦是我真心喜歡的城市,我曾經在那裡住了快一年時間。有時候,我也感覺到倫敦文化與東京有些類同性。

NIGO攝於倫敦設計博物館外,攝影/Elliot James Kennedy。
NIGO攝於倫敦設計博物館外,攝影/Elliot James Kennedy。

Q:任職藝術總監時,請分享你如何將KENZO的歷史和檔案放入設計?回看過去、認識和整合傳統工藝,對於當代創作者仍是重要的嗎?

NIGO:尊重過去的歷史非常重要。從網路上看到一個物件的照片,跟你真正把那物件捧在手掌心的感覺,有極大的差異。關於古著,其中蘊含的意義比你所看到的外表更重要。我珍藏多年的許多古著,某一層面都變成我思想上的老師。

Q:給有志往設計和創作的年輕輩一些建議?

NIGO:我想,關鍵是你得具備豐富的實作經驗和吸收大量知識。

Q:音樂產業如何影響你的視覺美學和聯名設計?你認為音樂是否也深刻影響時尚產業?

NIGO:我的配方就是:時尚+音樂=文化(My formula is: Fashion + Music = Culture)


《NIGO: From Japan with Love》

時間:2026年5月1日—10月4日
地點:倫敦設計博物館
網址:https://designmuseum.org/exhibitions/nigo-from-japan-with-love

直達官網

NIGO攝於倫敦設計博物館外,攝影/Elliot James Kennedy。
NIGO攝於倫敦設計博物館外,攝影/Elliot James Kennedy。


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