Marie Claire 美麗佳人 - 流行時尚, 彩妝美容, 名人明星, 風格生活

FASHION 秀場直擊

時裝編輯帶你看2019AW紐約時裝週,逛遍大小秀場、所有你該知道的事!(不斷更新)

經過瘋狂的零下負五十度體感溫度後,紐約市終於在時裝週前恢復了正常天氣,2019年秋冬,有什麼品牌值得關注?又有什麼趨勢不能錯過?一次通通告訴你!
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Marc Jacobs

「堅持Runway設計是一條稀有的路,但同時卻是通往時尚的道路」—Marc Jacobs。黑色亮片透紗變成華麗雲朵肩飾搭配平肩晚裝、蝴蝶結領飾、斗篷式外套搭配過膝圓澎裙展現優雅仕女風格。

運用絲緞縐綢、塔夫塔綢、或是混織金銀線和亮片增加光澤感,更使用了雙面羊毛面料營造出硬挺的線條。

由Stephen Jones設計的頭飾,將簡單的針織毛線帽縫製上不同的羽毛裝飾。

賈靜雯也身著一襲銀色金蔥洋裝現身秋冬大秀,搭配叛逆風格的雷鬼編髮,看起來酷勁十足。

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3.1 Phillip Lim

簡潔、俐落是這季3.1 Phillip Lim給人最直接的第一印象,延續品牌向來實穿的調性,在為都市女子打造生活感的衣櫃同時,也在剪裁輪廓中加入了不同的巧思,巨型充滿空氣感的枕狀包包被model隨意地抓握著,和包包呼應的則有球狀剪裁的Bomber Jacket,搭配澎鬆微捲的中長髮,彷彿看見了在風雪中闊步前進的紐約女子。另外,彈性針織面料的合身長裙、絲質百摺裹身裙,都讓行進間的步伐更具流暢感。

不同面料的長外套也絕對是今年必須鎖定的單品,海軍藍風衣、毛海雙排扣大衣、動物紋馬毛翻領大衣,都是極易搭配的質感單品。

最後則是秋冬時節不能錯過的高領上衣,在秀上持續出現的垂墜高領上衣,為整體造型增添了率性氣息。

 

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Tory Burch

以Black Mountain College黑山學院作為本季靈感來源,黑山學院是1933年創立於北卡山區的一所藝術學校,以結合藝術與生活的教育風格聞名,雖然僅有短短20幾年的教育生命,但卻對形塑美國現代藝術影響深遠。本季除了重新定義「混搭」的藝術之外,更重新改寫經典元素,花卉印花、搶眼的線條、男裝面料材質及女人味十足的浪漫服裝輪廓,

在材質與剪裁細節上,則使用了流蘇、誇張的荷葉與亮片裝飾,

搭配巧妙的色彩搭配,建築感的方正包款及尖頭長靴則讓秋冬的穿搭更具態度。

 

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Longchamp

今年秋冬Longchamp變得更時髦了!名模Mica Arganaraz以一襲帥勁十足的褲裝開場,為本次的秋冬系列定調,在本次的服裝系列中,大量出現強調肩線的皮毛裝飾外套與硬挺的皮革上衣,展現出剛強的個性

而向來在品牌能見度十足的印花長洋裝本季也沒有缺席,不論是搭配針織短版上衣或是皮革背心,不同材質搭配流動的輕盈布料更加迷人;

另外更以皮革寬版腰帶貫穿整個系列,除了勾勒出女性腰身外,也讓整體造型更加完整,也可見許多Look中以短領巾搭配襯衫的造型手法,是今年秋冬不妨學起來的穿搭小技巧。除此之外,鞋款則是清一色的高跟長靴,不論是露出腿部線條的短靴,或是動物壓紋的過膝靴款,今年的Longchamp女人,招搖的理直氣壯!

除了伸展台外,場內名人同樣精彩,除了傳奇超模Kate Moss外,Coco Rocha、劉雯及Kendall Jenners也現身力挺,超模同框,氣勢壓場。

Tomo Koizumi

短短五年間,日本服裝設計師Tomo Koizumi已經從裝苑雜誌上一角的正式躍上紐約時裝週的伸展台,強烈的裝飾風格曾受到天后Lady Gaga的青睞。如今,在聲勢低迷及風格以簡約摩登為主流的紐約時裝週,Tomo Koizumi的出現,無疑為開跑的時裝週打了一劑強心針,知名時尚評論《WWD》甚至跨頁專文報導,

他的伯樂:造型師Katie Grand及妝髮團隊Pat McGrath、Guido Palau更是業界的超強陣容,加上一線模特Bella HadidEmily Ratajkowski、Karen Elson、Joan Smalls、Sara Grace輪番上陣,

這一切其實是開始於Giles Deacon所發出的一張照片,被英國造型師Katie Grand相中,便邀請Tomo到紐約舉辦了服裝發表。雖然是在官方時裝週日程之外的服裝秀,Tomo這場大秀卻造成了更多迴響與知名度。以大量雪紡荷葉邊組成的大廓形禮服,看似甜美的顏色組成與外型下,其實是一層層刁鑽的服裝剪裁與打版,使用支撐性更好的聚酯纖維烏干紗、先做出立體荷葉邊後,再一一縫紉結合成服裝

他直言John Galliano是他的繆思及靈感來源,更崇拜他對於服裝工藝的極致要求,昨晚在Marc Jacobs店內所展示的首場服裝秀,已為他拿下第一塊時尚敲門磚。